Tools Needed

• Phillips screwdriver
• 10mm Wrench
• Grinder suitable for plastic (Dremel recommended)
• Wire stripper/crimper
• Hack Saw

Removal of Stock Fan

1. Remove the upper fan shroud by taking out 1x 10mm bolt up top and 4 clips underneath.
2. Remove the old mechanical fan assembly by undoing the 4x 10mm nuts that secure it to the water pump pulley.

   ⚠️ Pro Tip:

   Be careful not to remove the pulley. If it comes off, you will need to loosen the fan belt to reinstall it.

3. Remove the air intake from the MAF sensor forward.
4. Remove the lower fan shroud by undoing 2x 10mm bolts. You can either cut/break the shroud in half to pull it out from the top, or remove the nose piece and radiator to take it out in one piece.

Installation

Now take your Taurus fan and set it down onto the radiator. You should notice that if you line it up on the left side of the radiator (like I did), one bolt hole from the E-fan shroud lines up with one of the lower shroud mounting holes. For my Taurus fan I had to slot the hole in the shroud a little for it to line up perfectly.

Next, bolt the fan down using the one existing hole.

For the other side of the fan shroud you can make a custom bracket, or use a radiator-specific zip tie to secure the fan. I chose to use a pull-through zip tie with a rubber pad (the kind found in oil cooler mounting kits) to secure my fan. Later, I picked up some aluminum flat-stock and made a bracket.

Mount your fan controller wherever you want, just make sure the temp probe can reach the inlet side of the radiator. I chose to put mine out of sight, but where I could still access it with a screwdriver for adjustment or fuse/relay changes.

Wiring the fan

The relay has five terminals labeled: Common (C), Normally Open (NO), Normally Closed (NC), and two for the relay coil (Ground and +12VDC).

The Taurus fan has three wires coming out of it. Different years may use different colors, so test with a battery or check with a Ford dealership. My fan had the following:

• Black – Ground wire
• Blue – High-speed wire
• Orange/Black – Low-speed wire

The Hayden fan controller is simple to install. Follow its instructions for power, ground, ignition source, temperature probe, and A/C switch (if equipped). After that, you should have two wires left – these supply power to your fan.

Wiring Steps:

• Connect the wire for Fan #1 to the C terminal on the relay.
• Connect the wire for Fan #2 to the +12VDC terminal on the relay.
• Connect the Low-speed fan wire to the NC terminal.
• Connect the High-speed fan wire to the NO terminal.
• Ground the fan, relay, and controller to a clean chassis point.

When the temperature reaches the adjustable set point (e.g. 170°F), the controller energizes the Fan #1 wire, sending power to the low-speed wire. When the temperature rises further, both Fan #1 and Fan #2 energize, switching the relay to high-speed.

Here is a diagram of a similar setup:

Options

I wired in an under-hood switch in my setup as well. This is optional, but I thought it would be good to be able to pop the hood and turn on the fan at the drag strip, or just in case I started to overheat. It's really simple.

The fan controller has a green wire that can be wired to the A/C compressor so that the fan switches on when A/C is on. Since I removed my A/C, I used a switch to control power to the green wire. Connect the green wire from the fan controller to your switch, and connect an ignition-powered wire (preferably the same one you wired the controller to) to the other terminal of the switch.

After wiring the fan in this manner, I read about another method for running a two-speed or dual fan.

Wire the low speed to a relay and temp probe. Then wire the second speed (or second fan) to the AC condenser fan plug. The condenser fan is set (from the factory) to come on at water temps above 212°F. Therefore, it would be possible to wire it in such a way that the fan was on low at the controller's set temperature, and then kicked to high when the water temperature reached 212°F.

Next time I wire up a fan, I will most likely try this method.

Other Information on the Swap

I tested my fan and it drew 21 amps on low, and 35 amps on high. When the fan kicked on I noticed no difference in idle speed but my stock voltmeter did momentarily fall 1 volt and then rise back up. If I manually switched the fan onto high speed (it wasn't hot enough to get the controller to switch it to high speed on its own) the engine RPMs dropped about 100 and then came back up. It was similar to switching on the A/C at idle in a stock Z31.

With all that amperage draw, make sure your alternator is up to the challenge. My car has no amp-drawing A/C or stereo systems and my alternator is fairly new. It seems to be doing just fine with the fan installed. I will eventually probably end up upgrading to a Maxima (90amp) alternator when I start needing more current.

My Taurus fan is not silent. I assume this is from old age and sitting in a junkyard. I think that with some electric motor cleaner (I found some at a local R/C hobby shop) and some WD-40 I should be able to make it whisper quiet. It's not any louder than the stock dual fans on my 94 Mazda 626, but you can hear it when it comes on. High speed is quite a bit louder than low speed.

These things move a lot of air. I have read that on high, the Taurus fans flow more than 3300cfm. When mine came on for the first time (on high) the fan literally swept the floor under the radiator. Dust and radiator debris flew into my engine bay.

Conclusion

Anyways, that's all there is to it, besides a little engine bay cleanup I need to take care of. These fans are easy to find and easy to install. It's automatic and fairly cheap. I installed mine for under $90. It can be done cheaper, but I didn't have any wiring or connectors, and I wanted an under-hood switch. It fits well and makes some space in the engine bay. It's quieter than the stock fan, and when it is off, it saves you a few HP and maybe even gets you better fuel economy.