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1987 - 1989 Z31 Instrument Cluster Upgrade (Lighting and Needles)

The reason I did this to my Instrument cluster was to update it a bit, give myself a more visible red needles at night and more brightness.

I started this project was because my Instrument cluster was dim and with LED's being the craze and my job being based on LED's (Fiber Optic Lasers) I figured oh, Why not.

Comparison

Stock Z31 Gauge Needles
Stock
Red Z31 Gauge Needles
Red Needles
Final Product Z31 Gauge Cluster
Final Product

Items Needed

Bulb Chart

Nissan Part Number Common Part Number Volts / Watts Description Quantity
(24855C) - 24860-21P01 158 12V/3.4W T3-1/4 3
(24855C) - 24860-21P02 2722 12V/2.0W T1.5 1
(24855B) - 24860-21P00 39320 12V/2.0W T1.5/Neo Wedge/12mm Base 6
Notes: #158 bulbs can be replaced with #194 types. #2722 bulbs can be replaced with #74 types.

The Process

  1. Remove the lower steering column plastic trim. Use a Phillips screwdriver for the 3 screws.
  2. Remove the trim around the steering wheel (plastic casing just behind the wheel). There are 4 screws, 2 per side. Take off the top portion.
  3. Remove switch pods on each side of the instrument cluster. See: Switchpod bulb replacement
  4. Drop the steering column by loosening the 2 golden bolts underneath (but don’t remove them). This helps you get the cluster out without removing the steering wheel.
    Steering column bolts
  5. Remove the 2 Phillips screws from the instrument cluster bezel.
    Bezel screws
  6. Carefully remove the bezel from the instrument cluster area.
  7. Remove the 2 Phillips screws on the left and right of the cluster to free the unit.
    Cluster screws
  8. Slowly pull the cluster forward to access the rear.
  9. Press the top and bottom tabs on each connector to unplug from the cluster.
  10. Carefully sneak the cluster out between the steering wheel and dash.
  11. Now, we’ll upgrade to LED bulbs. Some modifications are needed.
  12. Remove the Gauge Face Lighting bar on top of the cluster (3 small Phillips screws on the bar, plus 2 auxiliary bulbs).
    Lighting bar screws
  13. Carefully remove the 3 PCBs (lighting bar and auxiliary bulbs).
    PCB setup
  14. Remove the front gauge lighting bar to reveal the white lighting diffusers.
    Lighting diffusers
  15. About diffusers: Keep them for incandescent or LED bulbs. Remove only if using UV bulbs in the 365-390nm range (most LEDs are not true UV).
    Diffuser details
  16. Remove the acrylic plastic cover (4 screws front, 5 rear). Gently undo 4 rear and 2 front tabs.
  17. Carefully separate and lift the cover.
    Acrylic cover removal
  18. LED Directionality: LEDs are directional, unlike incandescent bulbs, so add reflectors for better luminance.
  19. Red LED note: Red LEDs are focused and near infrared—consider reflectors or paint for better needle illumination.
  20. Mix premium white enamel paint well for reflectors (Testors Model Master recommended).
    Mixing paint
  21. Paint the underside of the front lighting bar flat white, as well as the PCB spots for temp/fuel bulbs.
    Painting for reflection
  22. Paint the inside of the trough where bulbs rest; stir well and apply several coats. This boosts needle lighting with red LEDs.
    Painted trough
  23. Review: Additional pictures of the cluster and bulbs.
  24. This cluster uses an acrylic diffuser for even illumination.
    Acrylic diffuser
  25. The gauge faceplate is lexan, with two squares for temp/fuel gauges.
    Faceplate
  26. The faceplate is orange lexan, screen printed and dotted with white paint on back for even light.
  27. Factory odometer/trip bulb: 2722 bulb, can be replaced with #74. Note acrylic diffuser.
    Odometer bulb
  28. Center bulb/diffuser: can use #194 bulb.
    Center bulb
  29. Bulb behind temp gauge: can use #194 bulb.
    Temp gauge bulb
  30. Bulb behind fuel gauge: can use #194 bulb.
    Fuel gauge bulb
  31. Comparison: 11 Mini SMT LEDs vs factory #158 bulb. These are the tallest that fit.
    Bulb comparison
  32. Z31 needles: poly with a weight. Painted fluorescent red for effect.
  33. Fluorescent red = orange/red, glows under blacklight. Blend with insignia red for deeper color.
    Paint mixing
  34. Result: Paint matches tachometer, looks more red.
    Final paint
  35. This method is great for stock, LED, or black light bulbs—needles look red day/night and glow under UV.
  36. Needles now glow red, even under black light.
    Red needles
  37. Red needles under black light.
    Red needles blacklight
  38. Reinstall needles, clean acrylic cover, button up screws.
  39. Test the cluster and gauges in car. If all works, tighten all remaining screws.
  40. View: With regular light and UV (no backlighting yet).
  41. Goal: Red needles achieved!
    Red needles final
  42. Slide the cluster in, plug in illumination connector (behind tach). Turn on parking lights, check LED polarity (+/–). LEDs won’t work if reversed!
  43. Photos show: stock white needles, red colored needles, and finished cluster.
  44. Key point: All needles glow red; fuel/temp gauges have red effect.
    Final instrument cluster
  45. Optionally use UV light for fluorescent glow!
  46. Result: Cooler-running, longer-lasting LEDs, and red illumination for needles and gauges.

Sources Used